This is inspired by a print that I have no idea what it’s called! LOL! Please see my insanely terrible sketch of said print below. Anyways I love a floral moment and wanted to turn it into crochet so here we are! You can watch my vlog crocheting the tank to see the journey, but I originally wanted to do the diamond cable stitch for the cross section, but it was just not working out so I went with surface crochet instead! Using surface crochet also makes it much easier overall so I’m glad thats what I landed on in the end.

Let’s make the tank!!

Tag me in your pics of the Lattice Tank with @whatmorganmakes and use #latticetank so I can see your makes!

Skill Level

This is a pattern for the intermediate crocheter. I think it’s also great for those looking to learn new skills or improve! If you aren’t 100% sure, there is also an accompanying video tutorial. The tutorial covers everything, including the colour changes, stitches, and surface crochet!

Techniques used in the pattern

Double crochet
Chain
Increase
Decrease
Single crochet
Slip stitch
Colour changing
Surface crochet

How it fits

The tank has about +1/-1 inch of negative ease, which means it will fit almost exactly to your bust measurement. If you would like a tighter or looser fit, go up or down a size. If you would like to go in between sizes, make sure you alter the stitch count by 8 stitches exactly.

Construction

The top is worked in one piece - a long rectangle that will be sewn together at the side seams. Once the base of the top is done, we’ll add on the criss cross portion using surface crochet. After that we’ll add the top and bottom border and straps.

Notes

The turning chain (ch 2 at the end of the row) does NOT count as a stitch
The pattern is written with AMERICAN terms
As all sizes are shown together, they are displayed in the following order. Make sure you know where in the order your size is - XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
When it says repeat from * -- there will be a star (*) before a specific portion of that row. Repeat what comes after the * for the specified number of times.

Materials

Dk weight yarn
4.5 mm crochet hook
Darning needle
Measuring tape
Stitch Markers

Stitches and Abbreviations (US TERMS)

Ch - chain
Blo DC - Double crochet in the back loop only
Dc - Double crochet
2dc - Dc increase - DC 2 sts into one st
Dc2tog - dc decrease - double crochet two stitches together
LDC - Large double crochet
FDC - Foundation Double Crochet
Flo DC - Double crochet in the front loop only
MC - Main colour
PC - Petal colour
Sc- Single Crochet
Sl St - Slip Stitch
St - Stitch

The Flower

The flower made throughout the top is made up of the 2dc for the leaves, and what I am calling a “large double crochet” because I don’t know what it’s actually called, for the petal part of the flower. The LDC is done in between the two stitches from the 2dc, not into the top of either like normal.

Decreasing - Dc2tog

The decrease (dc2tog) is used for the beginning and end of the top row. Yarn over and insert your hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (img 1). Yarn over and pull through 2, yarn over and instead of finishing the st as normal, insert your hook into the next st, yarn over and pull up a loop (img 2), yarn over and pull through 2, yarn over and pull through remaining 3 (img 3). Done!

Increasing - 2dc

In this case, the increase (2dc) is not used to increase the number of stitches in the pattern, rather to create the shape of the leaves on the flower. To do the 2dc, simply crochet two dc sts into one st. (img 4)

Large Double Crochet - LDC

I don’t know the real name for this stitch! But it’s very similar to the dc2tog, except we’ll do all the steps into one st. Yarn over, insert your hook and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through 2. Yarn over and insert your hook into that same section, yarn over and pull up a loop (img 5), yarn over and pull through 2, yarn over and pull through remaining 3 (img 6).

Foundation Double Crochet - FDC

At the beginning we’ll be using a foundation double crochet, rather than a traditional chain.

Chain 3. Yarn over, and insert your hook into the 3rd chain from the hook. Yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through 1 - this creates the “foundation chain” section of the st (img 7). Yarn over pull through 2, yarn over pull through 2 (img 8) - this creates the double crochet. This is the start of your foundation double crochet row. Yarn over, and insert your hook into the bottom of the st, from the first yarn over and pull through when you made the foundation chain part (img 9). You’ll insert your hook under two loops, rather than under one like we would working into a regular chain. Yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through one (creating the chain), then complete the double crochet st. Repeat those steps to complete.

Switching colours

How

To switch colours, you’ll complete the last dc of one colour with the new colour you need. So with the original colour you’ll yarn over, insert your hook and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 (img 10), and then with the new colour yarn over and pull through the last 2 (img 11)

Carrying + catching floats

For this pattern you DO NOT need to cut off your colour strands every row. It is designed so that the same strands can be used throughout. The side (left/right) that the strand is left off on is the same side it is picked back up on. However, we do need to lift strands through rows and carry them throughout. Sometimes in a colourwork project you’ll crochet over the strand you aren’t using for a few stitches before you use it again (carry). However, the stretches are quite large between each flower, so we’ll catch the floats behind the work. You need to make sure that you are leading the PC and leaf strands on the WS of your work so that we don’t see them.

When to catch + crochet over a strand

My preference is to crochet over a strand on the stitch you are switching to the new colour, so as shown below, on the last st with the MC, we’ll crochet over the green and then switch to the green at the end of the st.

The same goes with the MC - you’ll crochet over your MC strand every time you do the leaves or petal section of the flower, as you’ll be switching back to MC at the end of each st for the flower.

When doing the 7 sts in between each flower, you’ll catch either the leaf or PC strand on the fourth st, and then again on the 7th st as we’ll be switching at the end of the 7th st.

Lifting to new rows

Whenever you are not using the PC or leaf strands, you need to lift them each row, so that they are at the correct row when needed. When you reach the strand you aren’t using, just lift it up to the next st, and crochet over it, then leave it on the WS of your work, to then lift again on the next row, doing so until you need it!

Getting to the right stitch

As the flowers shift throughout, the leaf or PC strands might not be at exactly the right stitch we need them. You will need to do this either in the row before the flower if it’s at the beginning, or the same row of the flower, if its indented, as shown in the image below. The black arrows indicate which direction each row is going, and each text colour has a corresponding arrow. This is something you will need to be mindful of while working the top.

Gauge

Create your gauge swatch by using your 4.5mm hook, and crocheting in double crochet. I recommend making your swatch 18-20 stitches wide, and 13 rows long. This way you can get an accurate measurement, as the gauge should not include the ends of your rows, or the first or last row.

4” = 14 sts, 9 rows

Measurements and Sizing

Adjusting Size

If you want to go in between the sizes shown, all you need to do is crochet a multiple of 8. If you want your top longer or shorter, you just need to finish with a row of plain dcs after the petal row before moving onto the top row.

Size Guide

With that, let’s begin!

But before we do - you will need to remember to catch the green/PC strands in the middle of each flower (in the middle of the 7 st stretch with the MC), and crochet over the green/PC strands on the last of those 7 sts, and over any strand you are switching to. You also need to remember to lift your green/PC strands whenever you reach them each row as explained above. If you have not read the switching colours section, do so now as it is vital for this to work out.

To start, chain 3 with your MC.

Row 1: Create a FDC with 104 (112, 128, 144, 160) (168, 184, 192, 216) sts. Chain 2 and turn.

Row 2: Dc into each st across. Ch 2 turn.

Row 3: Dc 4, dc another st, adding in the green to complete it. With the green yarn, 2dc in the next st, switching back to MC at the end of the second dc. *Dc 3, dc and catch the green, dc 3 switching to green on the last one, 2dc in the next st, switching back to MC at the end of the second dc. Repeat from the * another 11 (12, 14, 16, 18) (19, 21, 22, 25) times. Leave your green strand on the WS. With your MC, dc in the last 2 sts. Ch 2 and turn.

Row 4: Dc 2, adding in the PC at the end of the second st. LDC in between the 2dc from the previous row, but crochet over the MC and green strands, and complete the st with MC. Leave the green strand on the WS, and continue with the MC and PC. *With MC, dc 3, dc and catch the PC, dc 3 switching the PC on the last one, LDC in between the 2dc from the previous row, completing the st with the MC. Repeat from the * another 11 (12, 14, 16, 18) (19, 21, 22, 25) times. Leave your PC strand on the WS. With your MC, dc in the last 5 sts. Ch 2 and turn.

Row 5: Dc 5, Blo dc, *dc 7, blo dc. Repeat from the * another 11 (12, 14, 16, 18) (19, 21, 22, 25) times. Dc in the last 2 sts. Ch 2 and turn. **Remember to lift your PC and green strands

Row 6: Dc 6, switching to the green on the last st, 2dc switching to the MC at the end, *dc 7, switching to the green on the last st, 2dc switching to the MC at the end. Repeat from the * another 11 (12, 14, 16, 18) (19, 21, 22, 25) times. Dc in the last st. Ch 2 and turn.

Row 7: Dc 1, switching to the PC at the end, LDC in between the 2 sts from the 2dc, switching to the MC at the end, *dc 7, switching to the MC on the last st, LDC in between the 2 sts from the 2dc, switching to the MC at the end. Repeat from * another 11 (12, 14, 16, 18) (19, 21, 22, 25) times. Dc in the last 6 sts. Ch 2 and turn.

Row 8: Dc 6, Flo dc, *dc 7, Flo dc. Repeat from the * another 11 (12, 14, 16, 18) (19, 21, 22, 25) times. Dc in the last st. Ch 2 and turn.

Row 9: Dc 5, switching to the green on the last st, 2dc switching to the MC at the end, *dc 7, switching to the green on the last st, 2dc switching to the MC at the end. Repeat from the * another 11 (12, 14, 16, 18) (19, 21, 22, 25) times. Dc in the last 2 sts. Ch 2 and turn.

Row 10: Dc 2, switching to the PC on the second st, LDC in between the 2 sts from the 2dc, switching to the MC at the end, *dc 7, switching to the MC on the last st, LDC in between the 2 sts from the 2dc, switching to the MC at the end. Repeat from * another 11 (12, 14, 16, 18) (19, 21, 22, 25) times. Dc in the last 5 sts. Ch 2 and turn.

Rows 11 - 23 (26, 29, 32, 35) (38, 41, 44, 47): Repeat rows 5 - 10 until you reach the correct number of rows. Sizes XS, M, L, 3XL, 5XL will finish with row 5, and sizes S, L, 2XL, 4XL will finish with row 8. If you would like your top longer or shorter, adjust the length but make sure you finish with either row 5 or 8. Once you are done the main body section, chain 1 and turn.

Row 24 (27, 30, 33, 36) (39, 42, 45, 48): Sl st 8 (10, 13, 16, 19) (20, 23, 24, 29), ch 2, dc2tog, dc 32 (32, 34, 36, 38) (40, 42, 44, 46) sts, dc2tog, ch 2 and sl st into the next st. Fasten off.

Sew your top together along the two side seams, and start on the surface crochet!

To begin, create a slip knot with your chosen colour. You can start under any of the bottom flowers, but you will need to find the correct stitch to start in on the bottom of the first row directly under one of the flowers. Insert your hook into the bottom of the stitch, yarn over underneath, and pull up a loop.

Insert your hook again in the space to the left of the stitch you started under, and pull up a loop to sl st. You need to make sure you have the right tension throughout, as it can really change the shape and size of your top.

Insert your hook into the top of the st to the left, and sl st.

Continue following the patterns as laid out below. The pattern to insert your hook is: space to the left of the st above, space above of the st to the left, space to the left of the st above, space above 2 sts to the left, space to the left of the st above, space above the st to the left. This is repeated throughout the entire top. Follow the first chart if you are on the front, and the second on the back. You do not need to cut off your yarn at all if doing this correctly. You should be able to crochet towards the top, turn, the bottom, turn, etc until you are back to where you started.

Once you reach the top, if you are at the front of your top, chain one, turn, and continue following the pattern on the chart. Same as when you get to the bottom, chain one and turn, continuing with the stitch pattern on the charts below. When you reach the top on the back, there aren’t enough rows to complete the diamond, so you’ll sl st 2 as shown in the chart, and continue following the pattern as laid out.

FRONT

The blue line is going up towards the top, and the green is going down towards the bottom. The grey dots are where you insert your hook + crochet. The two points pointed at by the arrow are essentially the same spot. Once you’ve finished following the blue line, you’ll turn and follow the green line, just for size purposes they cross over rather than connect, but follow them regardless.

BACK

Again, the blue line is going up towards the top, and the green is going down towards the bottom. The arrow is again indicating points at the same spot. At the top on the back you’ll sl st 2, turn, and continue following the green line.

Border and Straps

Once you are done the surface crochet to make the diamond st, place stitch markers where you want your straps to be. Fasten on at the top of the side seam, ch 1, and sc into that same st. Continue sc around. When you reach the sm, just chain for your desired length. Once you are satisfied with the length of you chain, turn, and working into the back of the chain, sl st in each ch all the way back down. Once you are done sl st, continue single crocheting around, repeating for the second strap on the back, and again continue sc around to the front. Once you reach the top row, sc 2 in the side where we did the ch 2, and then create another strap. Continue sc across the top, and create the last strap. Sc 2 again on the side of the row, and continue sc around until you have completed the top border, and sl st into the first st, and fasten off. If you would like to do a bottom border as well, fasten on to the bottom and sc around.

Weave in your ends and you are done! Tag me when posting on social media so I can see what you’ve made!

The Lattice Tank Pattern